What is the purpose of Sawyer Creek?John and Julie Kreider
Cell: 315-767-9463
sawyercreek@gmail.com
Imagine if you will....sit back, relax and let your mind
wander.
You live in beautiful upstate New York... Just outside the
Adirondacks. You have sweet smelling green meadows, winding streams,
waterfalls, rolling hills and a quaint but modest farm house. You have an apple
orchard...it's been in your family for years and growing apples is in your
blood. You have carefully slaved over and selected your trees for years. You
carefully pruned them, sprayed them and fertilized them...some were from the
original old farm stock...some were grafted with new stock, some were new
varieties...and some are just seedlings. Outside your old farm house by the
road you have built a sturdy wooden stand. It's humble but attractive and
though your location is remote your apples are known far and wide. People drive for miles to buy them. They are
tasty apples..versatile...whether to bake with or to eat. They are of high quality
and you take great pride in producing them....and as much as you love your
apples and eat them yourself there is even greater pride in watching others
enjoy them too! You have many regular customers that stop by to buy your
apples. Some that buy them are busy passers by...some linger, chat and become
friends and many, once they visit, come back to buy apples time after time.
They know what to expect when they buy your apples. You price them reasonable
so that families can afford them but allow yourself enough of a profit that you
can stay in business. After all, if you can't stay in business there will be no
more apples!
Some even buy your seedlings so they can take them home and
make their own orchards and have their own stands. You delight in seeing your
apples appreciated and grown on other farms as well.
When you put your apples out on your stand you make sure
that only high quality apples get sold. Ones that are bruised or of low quality
don't belong. They are not good for business and if one of your customers gets
a "bad" apple they will be disappointed....they won't come back for
more! You only want to sell apples you are proud to say came from your stand.
After all- some will go into pies that get entered in the county fair! or some will
be used in special family recipes that will create precious memories.
You also try never to sell out of apples. Your customers
have come to rely on you to always provide them with the apples that they need
and want. If you sell out of apples you are out of business! Your solution? You
go to your neighbors and their orchards and carefully select from their apples
the best you can find to put in your stand.... Ones of the type and quality you
would have grown yourself. Your customers are happy. You are happy...and each
year you try to grow and provide better and better apples.
You stay on your quaint farm. You live the life you love and
you enjoy the many friends you have made year after year at your stand.
So now you've heard my little story. Of course it's the story
of Sawyer Creek...and our apples are our horses. Horses are not only our
business, but our life. It's what we do and it's what we are.
Why should I buy from a professional breeder?
A
COMPARISON OF:
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Traits of a Professional Breeders
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Traits of Irresponsible Breeders
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Is actively involved with the
national and local horse networks (shows, training,
associations, clubs, and other reputable breeders) to keep involved and
their knowledge current.
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Not involved with
the horse networks (has "pets" around the
pasture)
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The quality and
suitability of his horses for breeding is proven through competition
and titles. The horses' pedigrees are filled with animals who
have obtained competitive titles. They never breed horses
without "papers"
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The quality of the
horses is almost always substandard, and they are not tested in
competition. (Horses are just pets or "breeding machines")
The pedigrees consist mostly of a list of unknowns bred by backyard
breeders; stock may not even have "papers"; may be grade
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Knowledgeable in every
facet of their breed- training, showing, socializing, breeding,
health issues/defects; and researches genetics when choosing mates, Can
and will help and educate horse buyers in regard to these issues
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Not particularly
educated about their breed, often not aware of his own breed's genetic
defects; does not consider the genetics of an animal which he intends to
breed
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Willing to give you
his references and has a list of repeat customers
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Has no references and
no repeat customers. Takes your money, then says "Goodbye" and
"Good luck"
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Breeds to
improve his own horses, his bloodlines and his chosen breed
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Breeds just to breed
or make money or see his "great horse" procreate. Breeds any
mare because he feels a bred mare will sell for more than an open one, and
that a stallion will sell for more than a gelding.
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Does all necessary
genetic testing; does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are
carriers of defects and is aware of the bloodlines that carry defects.
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Does no genetic
testing; ignorantly or knowingly breeds defective animals or those which
are carriers, thus, perpetuating disease and defect in the breed
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Does not own more horses
than he has room, time or money for; Horses are groomed, exercised,
healthy, happy
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Farm is
overloaded, horses are "warehoused" not groomed or
exercised, don't look healthy or happy.
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Uses only good quality
feed, wormer and vaccinations. Is not afraid to call the vet out.
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Feeds the cheapest
feed and wormer, does only the required vaccinations if any, and
does not want to invest in a vet call.
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Matches horses
temperaments and training with buyers' personalities, experience and
skill level. Can honestly evaluate the horse and it's potential
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Allows buyers to pick
the "prettiest" one. They will sell to
anyone who offers the money. Says all of his horses are
high quality and suited for everything.
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Never sells to
"impulse" buyers and always provides information to prepare
buyers for the horse. Sells only to buyers who make the horse's safety
a priority.
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Sells to
"impulse" buyers. Does not follow up after the sale, and
provides little in the way of information or support.
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Interviews prospective
buyers, checks home and references, refuses to sell to substandard homes
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Sells first-come,
first-served to whomever has the cash; does not find out which homes are
substandard
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Encourages or requires
buyers to geld or not breed non-breeding quality animals.
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Encourages buyers to
breed, regardless of quality
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Encourages buyers to
train the horse; will give references to qualified trainers
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Shows no concern for horses
after sale; knows no trainers nor has any experience with them.
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Makes sure buyers
understand horses need for considerable time, attention, exercise
and training , Makes sure they know the expenses involved and that it is a
long term commitment.
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Does not provide even
his own horses with enough time, attention, exercise or training
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Professional
Breeders
Improve the Breed |
Irresponsible
Breeders
Damage the Breed |
A professional breeder is one who always puts the best interests of their chosen breed and of individual horses first, above any consideration of profit, or personal ambition. A responsible breeder does not produce foals just to have stock to sell or just because a mare happened to come in heat. They produce a foal only after careful consideration of the conformation and disposition of the prospective sire and dam, their individual strengths and weaknesses, how their pedigrees niche, and what the proposed breeding would contribute towards the betterment of the breed. This is an extensive and time-consuming process, therefore, it is not surprising to find that a responsible breeder considers the horses as their "kids" and wants only another responsible home for them.
A professional breeder should be eager and able to provide
detailed information about the breed they are involved with, as well as
information about the sire and dam of the horse . Answering what may seem like
"stupid" questions from a novice should not be a problem for the
responsible breeder-it is an opportunity to educate. This educational
responsibility also includes information about the negative aspects of a horse
ownership. Beware of a breeder that says there are no negative aspects to horse
ownership.
A professional breeder is also aware that all horses,
purebred or not, carry genetic defects. The breeder must be knowledgeable about
which defects are most prevalent in their breed. Genetic testing is available
to screen for some of these problems. The responsible breeder should make use
of these tests that are available before
a planned foal is produced. . Once a foal is born, the responsible breeder will
insure that the foal gets the best possible start in life. This includes
providing clean, suitable stabling,
nourishing feed, fresh water, veterinary care (including vaccinations
and worming at the proper time), farrier care and lots of human attention .
Good written records should be kept on each horse. This may include records of
vaccinations, farrier work, and worming..
A professional breeder screens prospective owners for the
horses they do not intend to keep. A responsible breeder will want to know as
much as possible about you, as the prospective buyer. A responsible breeder's
worst nightmare is to have one of their horses in an unsuitable home, unloved
and uncared for, or worse yet, sent to auction to end up in slaughter! So don't
be surprised to be given the "third degree" by a breeder. You will
get questions about your stabling arrangements, skill levels, goals, training,
family and work schedule. You may also be asked for veterinary and personal
references; and possibly a farm visit by the breeder. These are all designed to
help the breeder get to know you, in order to match you with the horse
"most likely to succeed" in your individual situation.
Professional breeders work very hard and put a great deal of
time and effort to produce highest quality animals that have sound health,
temperament, and structure.
Where can you find a professional breeder? Attend horse shows, contact local or national
breed associations for referrals and network.
Read books, study, research and get references from any breeder you are
considering obtaining a horse from.
Finally try to be patient! Finding
the right horse and locating one from a reputable breeder will take some time
and effort on your part...all worth it in the long run!
Do you ever sell your "best" stock?
Yes! Our best horses are our best advertising! Great Sawyer Creek horses sold to show homes
generate advertising for us! We have a general limit...one foal a year that we
may keep...and some years we don't even do that! It makes more sense to own
breeding age stock then for us to wait on a baby. Now you are going to ask me
why we sell breeding age stock. ELEMENTARY!...we have control of what our
stallion breeds and the quality of babies we produce and we can get more babies
by him on the ground and in more locations than if we kept all the mares ourselves on our farm!
PLUS...those people show or tell their friends and do the advertising for us!
Think about it. When we ship semen do we really know the quality of the mare we
are breeding??? No...not really... and if that mare is not a good cross often
times it's associated with the stallion rather than the mare... BUT, if we buy the best mares we can find that we
KNOW are quality...breed them to our stallion and then sell them bred to the
homes we want...and make great matches...we KNOW we are putting the type of
babies down with mares we hand picked and where we want them to be. If the new
owner is happy he wins ...therefore WE WIN! A great baby in the right home is
worth a dozen journal ads. It makes smart business sense. We can't keep them
all, and not changing and trying different bloodlines would take away some of
the fun! If we sell some of our best stock bred to our best stock we make happy
customers and wonderful friends. Now you
may ask me why are some of our horses NOT for sale? ...well...look at it this
way...if you pay $10,000 for a horse as a yearling...you have to wait several
years to get a foal out of that horse and then when you do chances are it's
going to take several more years to get your $10,000 and expenses back! so it's
not that they are not "for sale" necessarily...but that we haven't
recouped our investment yet. I guess SURE...just about any of our horses WOULD
be for sale for the right price and at the right time...but most of you
wouldn't want to pay what we have to have to even break even! So that's the story.
We like to sell the BEST quality horses at prices families can afford...and the
fact of the matter is we can sell you a foal out of that $10,000 mare without
you having to spend the $10,000 for her, the breeding expenses and without you
taking the risk.
I am interested in buying a horse but I am not sure what I
should buy. How can you help me?
We at Sawyer Creek are most interested in good matches
between the prospective owner and the horse.
It does us no good to sell you a horse that will not fit your goals! We
first like to find out from you what your needs, goals, and preferences
are. From there we can assess if we have
something in our program that will meet those needs and if so, make a
recommendation to you. If we don't,
perhaps we know of a horse available elsewhere that will! If you have decided on a Sawyer Creek
Appaloosa, a minimum non-refundable deposit of 25% of the purchase price but no
less than $500 is taken to hold the horse for you and a sales contract is
signed. We accept personal checks and direct wire transfer. The registration papers, health papers and
coggins will be ready to go upon completion of payment and in time for your new
horse's transport. I will warn you
however, Sawyer Creek horses are addictive! Just ask all of our repeat buyers!
What should I pay and how should I pay for my prospective
horse?
A less fun aspect of your new horse purchase but of course a
necessary one is the art of paying!
After all your research and inquiries you think you have
found your perfect horse. Hopefully you have researched the price and have
either discovered it is "fair", "way cheap", or "way
high" for what is being offered. Hopefully it falls in the fair range, or
in the best case it is a reasonable bargain....but..... The "way
cheap" ones should send up caution flags and warrant extra attention and
research. 1% of the time they ARE simply a true bargain.. BUT 99% of the time you get what you pay for!
Beware of fast sells or high pressure. There is generally a good reason that
this horse is cheap and you need to discover that reason before you rush into
any transaction. This can be a conformational flaw, undesirable genetic trait
or predisposition, a bad habit, a health problem, a temperament problem or
something not all that readily obvious. Remember...this horse is going to be a
member of your family so your careful attention is well warranted. You may have
to go back to the research table.
On the other hand, the "way high" ones can be the
result of an un-astute seller, a slick sales person who has sized you up as
"green" or there is some outstanding quality about this horse that is
not readily evident to you. The sellers might be grasping at straws, know more
than you do, don't want to sell the horse or simply don't know it's market value.
These deserve that extra amount of research as well. What you think may be high may be...OR
actually very fair! Ask the seller WHY they feel the horse is worth that price
and discuss it openly...you may get your answer and learn something too!
Now, the "fair" priced horse is usually from an
astute seller whose done the homework, knows his horse and where he stands on
the open market place. Usually the "fair" priced ones come from the
more experienced sellers or breeders. They have a demand for their horses and
an established clientele they have built over time which means they don't
"HAVE" to bargain basement anything.
They have good stock that sells on it's own merits and often price is
less of an issue than making a good match. These are the people that WELCOME
your research. It only goes to further prove the value of their horses.
Hopefully you will consider Sawyer Creek
in that category!
Now that you've gotten a good assessment of your prospective
horse's value, have seen it's registration papers are in order and are ready to
purchase it, you need to decide if you
are willing to pay the price the seller is asking. No one who is reputable that
is selling a horse will be insulted if you offer less. Of course that doesn't
mean they will come down to your price and accept. Often you will find that if
the horse is priced fairly to begin with...they won't! They don't have to. But
it doesn't hurt to try. Most reputable breeders price their stock where they
think they ought to be and don't play games. And what of the sellers that are
"way high" and feeling you out? Decide where you think the horse
ought to be, and tell them why. If you
don't agree with them, don't let them sway you- simply make your offer and
stick to it. You might be surprised if that seller calls you back in a few days
and perhaps decides to accept your offer after all... OR, you can always choose
to negotiate. If the price won't come
down there are other compromises you might make that will make you both feel
more comfortable. Perhaps the seller
would be willing to deliver the horse, throw in a breeding to their stallion or
put some saddle time in.
Now, VERY IMPORTANT- when you make your offer keep in mind
what YOUR situation is and be up front about it. Chances are a seller is NOT
willing to take payments on a horse that is in high demand unless it is in an
upper price range OR the seller thinks there are other benefits in selling
their horse to you as opposed to someone else. A good example- IF it's a foal from their breeding program and
your goals and plans include showing the foal, often breeders WILL give special
consideration to you as your high profile show ring exposure goes towards good
advertising for their farm. You will be doing them a favor by promoting their
stallion or training program and they may just be more willing to sell to you
than someone who plans on keeping the horse only as a backyard pet and trail
horse. In any case, a seller may or may not be willing to take payments and a
clean cash deal will get you farther than if you are asking to pay over time.
If you do have to make payments, make sure you have a substantial down payment
to offer and you have the ability to follow through and the seller is assured
of that. Most sellers will ask you to sign a contract and that's for your
protection as well as theirs. They are generally a standard form but read all
of it and if you have questions ASK. Terms vary but generally with most sellers
a horse will not leave a breeders farm
until they are paid for and you will not get the registration papers until the
transaction is complete. This is important for you to know because if you plan
on showing this horse it will probably need to be in your name for your breed
association to do so. Allow time for this and for the transfer of ownership to
be processed by your association. Also bear in mind, that if you plan on making
payments some breeders may charge you a
carrying fee or interest charge, board and expect you to maintain that horse
from the time of sales agreement till it leaves the sellers premises. This may
include you paying for vet work, wormer and farrier work. You may have to assume the risk and
responsibility if the horse is hurt or dies in the interim. For this reason it's
prudent to take out an insurance policy on the horse to protect your
investment. Another possible consideration- You need to set aside some money if
you are going to have the horse transported. Haulers DO NOT take payments. If
for some unexpected reason you are going to be late on a payment, most sellers
will understand, but be up front about it and tell them in advance if possible
and give them a reasonable date in which they can expect payment and stick to
it. You may have to pay a late fee penalty but do bear in mind, while you are
making payments this seller is also locked in and may have been turning down
cash sales on this horse because they are honoring their commitment to you.
Finally, the payment itself-
If you are on the premises, sellers should be more than
happy to give you a receipt for your payment so cash or good check is
acceptable. If they are not willing to give you a receipt for your payment
DON'T BUY THE HORSE. SOMETHING IS ROTTEN IN THE WOOD PILE! If it's a long
distance buy or if time is of the essence you can wire transfer funds. Most
banks are set up to do it and what it involves is simply going to your bank and
having your funds from your account transferred through the Federal Reserve to
the sellers bank account. For this you will need the seller's routing number, account
number, name, phone number and physical address of the sellers bank, their home
address and phone number. This transaction will cost you anywhere from $20-$50
but the money is usually there in a matter of hours and is deposited into their
account the same as cash. If you are paying by personal check don't count on
transporting the horse until that check has cleared your bank. If you need the horse fast a certified check
or bank draft is guaranteed funds for the seller. A
check sent in the mail is safer sent Priority with "tracking"
or Registered. Western Union is fast
but can be very costly as they charge a percentage. For that reason we don't
recommend it.
You did it! You successfully bought your horse for a fair
price and it's on it's way to be a new member of your family. See how easy that
was? Careful.. it can be addicting!
Do you have transportation available for my horse?
Yes! We have several transporters available for either long
cross country hauls, overseas or trips just around the corner. We can easily
recommend someone reliable, safe and affordable no matter where or when your
horse needs to go. Sawyer Creek has been involved in literally hundreds of
successful long distance hauls...both within the US and overseas for years.
The world seems to get smaller every day. Don't let
transport worries sway you from a long distance purchase if the horse is your
"perfect match!"
Regardless if your horse is a valuable show horse, breeding animal...or just a wonderful four
legged family member, you want to make sure that your horse is hauled safely
and with little stress. Of course the best situation is that you haul your
horse yourself! That way you KNOW the care your horse is being given on the
trip. But that is not always possible. You may find the need to solicit the
services of a commercial hauler. The selection of that hauler and the
preparation for your horse's transport should be undertaken with as much
diligence as if you were riding in that trailer yourself!
The first step in arranging horse transport is to know the
state or international requirements of your trip. If your trip is going to be
within the U.S. borders and is to cross state lines, it is a federal
requirement that your horse have a current negative EIA test (coggins) and a
Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (Health Certificate). Each state has set
it's own specific requirements. This is something you can check yourself and I
have the link below for the State Regulations information. In addition, some
states, particularly out west, require "Brand Inspections" and
"Bill of Sale." That link is also provided here.
At the same time you are in the process of getting the
necessary paperwork ready for your horse's transport, you may want to consider
whether or not you are going to insure the horse. This may also require a vet
inspection and could be taken care of at the same time as the Certificate of
Veterinary Inspection. If you decide to insure, make sure that the company is
aware that the horse is being hauled. Some insurance companies may not cover
your horse if the transporter you are using isn't licensed with their own
insurance.
This leads to the all
important selection of a transport company and I can't emphasize enough that
PRICE should not be the only determining factor! How do you FIND a transport
company? One site that you may find helpful is the Traveling Horse Transport
Directory. This link is below. This site
lists transportation companies that haul within the US, Canada, Europe and
Internationally. It also lists layover stables. Through this site you can
request a free horse transport quote from all the companies at once and they
will contact you.
Before you ask for a quote
you will need to be specific as to how you want your horse hauled. By
this I mean you will need to decide whether or not you want your horse tied or
if you want a box stall so the horse can move around. Of course the box stall takes
up more room on the trailer and therefore will
raise your cost BUT...if you have a young horse or the trip is long what
you pay for in extra costs is compensated for in extra safety.
Once you get those quotes, your research should begin.
Remember, the cheapest hauler may not be the most economical! In order for
their prices to be cut, the trip may be longer and with more stops which is not
necessarily the healthiest for your horse. What you save in transport dollars
you may pay in vet bills once the horse
arrives. In addition to the price, you will want to compare the equipment used,
type of care provided on the trip, duration of the trip, number of stops and
the customer service. Ask about pick-up and drop-off dates and times but
understand a certain amount of flexibility on your part is necessary. Often
times drivers can't give you exact times because of the variability of traffic,
weather, other pick-ups and drop-offs. You should be provided with a contact
number of the driver and/or dispatcher to keep you updated. Ask lots of
questions and get references. Don't be timid. CALL those references.
Once you have done your research and have come up with a
competent company with procedures, terms and conditions you are satisfied with,
be prepared to pay a reasonable deposit to secure your slot on the trip. DO
NOT, however, pay for your haul in full beforehand. I would question any
company that made such a request.
Your work is not done! Your horse needs to be prepared
adequately for the journey. A few simple
precautions can prevent shipping fever, thrush, cuts and abrasions, colic and
emotional scars. While your hauler may be in the business to minimize the
stress of the trip, they are not horse trainers! You have certain
responsibilities.
Horses that leave Sawyer Creek make practice runs on the
trailer if necessary, prior to leaving.
Don't make the long haul the first haul!
Inform the hauler of any habits or quirks the horse has that may effect
the transport. Give him a feel for this horse. That might include prior hauling
experiences, the disposition of the horse, and any health issues. Let him know
if the animal is pregnant and her due date or if the mare is open,
approximately when she is due to cycle again. This may be important if a
stallion is scheduled to be hauled on the same trip.
Have all of your paperwork in a envelope clearly labeled
with all contact and emergency info.
Provide proper necessary supplies and equipment. This would
include a sturdy halter and lead rope if requested. Do not send expensive
equipment that you want back. If other items are to go with the horse, in your
envelope include an inventory of the items sent and label the items. Remember,
chances are, more than one horse will be on that trailer. You want to make sure
the items get safely to their destination.
Do not expect your hauler to provide shipping boots or
wraps. They won't because of sanitary reasons. In most cases we do not wrap a
horse's legs or use boots as we find they can cause more trouble than they prevent
if not put on properly, checked and maintained on the trip. Shipping boots can slip, causing the horse to
kick in the trailer and injure himself. Also, they can add additional heat and
stress to the legs. Wraps, if not applied properly, can bow a tendon. However,
if you insist on wraps or boots, make sure the horse is used to them prior to
their transport.
Feed- We always send a bag of our grain and hay that the
horse is used to with the hauler.
HOWEVER, the grain is for the new owner to transition the horse with
upon it's arrival and is not to be fed on the trip. NO RICH FEED while hauling!
When sending hay, send grass hay, not alfalfa. This is to reduce the
possibility of colic from the stress of the trip.
One of the biggest concerns on any trip is dehydration. If
the trip is to be long, you may want to
blend a soda drink or Kool-Aid in with the horse's water starting at least a
week before transport. Some horses are finicky about any change in the taste of
water, especially if they are used to well or spring water and they are offered
the chlorinated city water. The soda or Kool-Aid will disguise the difference
in taste. Provide the same soda or Kool-Aid to the hauler so that the water he
offers the horse will taste similarly.
In addition, you can administer electrolytes prior to and during the
trip if necessary. Electrolyte pastes
are available in tube form at most tack or equine supply stores.
Now I'd like to touch on a subject often asked. It's in
regard to exporting and transporting horses out of the country. I can't
emphasize enough that you should go through an experienced and reputable agency
or broker for this process. Each country has it's own import/ export
requirements and they are constantly changing! Do remember however that the broker
works for the buyer, not for the seller.
We are fortunate in that we live close to a US/Canada Port
of Entry. We deal with the Canadian
requirements ourselves but even those requirements need to be checked for
changes on each and every transport. International transport, however, requires extensive and sometimes quite
expensive preparation. Horses going to Canada and Mexico usually go by
traditional trucking. Horses to Australia or Hawaii go by boat. Horses overseas
go by plane. Overseas transport runs usually in the $4000 to $7500 range and up
per horse shipped. That price range
includes the quarantine period and door to door pick-up and delivery. If
three horses are shipped together to fill a "pallet" the buyer MIGHT
get a small discount. Prior to export the horse will have to have the required
health tests and vaccinations required by their destination country and in most
cases will be required to be in quarantine for no less than 30 days. Since
horses coming out of quarantine are hauled in a "sealed" trailer to
the airport, quarantine facilities must be within 1 day driving distance of the
International Airport they are being shipped out of. The risk involved is that
if something should happen that the seal be broken, the quarantine period must
be started all over again! In addition, only certain larger international
airports are equipped to handle the big cargo planes used for horse
transport. I can't emphasize enough that
international transport MUST be handled by an experienced and competent broker
or agency.
While long distance horse transport requires preparation and
research, it can be accomplished safely and efficiently.
What conformational guidelines should I look for in a horse?
I don't think there is a single one of us that have ever
been to a horse show that didn't play "silent judge" as we are
sitting up in the stands. Whether it be
a performance class or a halter class, our eyes will scan those in front of us
and we will just naturally compare what we see to the others in the ring or to
our mind's idea of perfection....or to even what we have at home. John and I
are guilty of being silent judges. I
know that we scour magazines and study pictures, critique videos relentlessly
and then put our heads together and "compare notes." It makes us a tough team as each of us tend
to weigh our priorities a shade differently but we do have the basics in
common. In thinking about this, we have decided share with you the checklist
of conformational qualities John and I use. Now I'm not saying that everyone
should judge horses by our checklist...oh heavens no! But I AM saying that everyone should give
much thought to a checklist of their own.
So with this in mind...here's the Sawyer Creek conformational
checklist..And since there is no such thing as a PERFECT horse...After each
aspect of conformation on the checklist, I have rated each trait as to the
importance we place on it in regard to our judgment as a whole. The scale is from 1-10 with 10 being HIGHLY
IMPORTANT.....so important we would rule a horse out immediately if this
criteria were not met...to 1 which is- Yes, this is important but not a make or
break trait.....just food for thought and I welcome your comments and YOUR
checklist!
HEAD- Attractive head.
Short from eye to muzzle, small muzzle and a big round eye. We feel a
big eye is important to good sight and even the temperament of the horse as a
horse with poor vision tends to be "spookier." We like a wide
forehead and a straight line or even a slight dish from the forehead to muzzle.
The eyes should be well set. Not too far foreword on the head. We prefer dark skin around the eye and muzzle
for sun protection. The mouth should be deep, not shallow so a bit will sit
properly. The teeth must be aligned with
a good bite-no more than an 1/8th of an inch or fingernail catch over (this one
is a must!). Ears should be short and set foreword on the head. The poll should not be peaked and
pointy. We like a big round jowl with a
chiseled appearance to the muzzle. Rating- 7
THROAT LATCH and NECK- We tend to be neck people. We like a neat clean throat latch- tight, not
webby with the head well set at an extended angle. A thick throat latch tends to not allow a
horse to flex well. The neck should be
naturally long and thin (aprox. 1/3 of the overall length of the horse and have
a 2:1 ratio to to bottom line) and should be set so it comes out abruptly,
clean, straight and high out of the chest as opposed to low and deep and
webbing in- NOT base wide. We do not want to be able to see a base wide
triangle from where the neck meets the shoulder to the throat latch. Also, from
a profile view we do NOT want to see a bow on the underline of the neck. We
like the neck to come out of the withers low, straight and level- flat out of the
withers. We look for a clean top line on
the neck...as little crest as possible but taking into consideration the weight
the horse is carrying. A topline on a
neck that dips is unacceptable though this too can be to some extent weight
related. Rating - 9
SHOULDER- The shoulder should have a slope of 45 to 50
degrees which should also correspond to the angle of the pastern. Rating - 7
TOP and UNDER LINE- This is the top and under profile lines
of the horse when viewed at 90 degrees. Imagine the horse divided into equal
thirds- poll to withers, back, and hip. My John even takes a ruler to side
profile pictures. We like the horses
square- taking the profile and super-imposing a box over the body of the horse.
The top profile line should be overall short for strength of the back and
relatively level with the withers no more than 1/2" to 1" inch lower
than the croup. You will tend to find the very heavy muscled horses fatter and
heavier over the croup so allowances should be made for weight. We like a prominent
wither (again somewhat weight related), as opposed to flat and muttony over the
withers. The withers should set directly over the heart girth. The shoulder should be long and sloping
forward. We like a strong shoulder and
back. The back line should neither
noticeably dip nor roach up towards the hip. The croup should be long with a
gentle slope...not steep nor short and prominent. The tail set should be
low...a high tail set can mean a tipped vulva on a mare and can give a pointy
hipped appearance. The underline should
be longer than the top line so that the horse can move freely. The heart girth should be very deep with a
noticeable drop from the profile angle as opposed to a tubie appearance -
meaning same width from back to chest just behind the front legs. There should
be a lot of spring to the ribs. We like a very strong stifle and full long
gaskin and on our halter horses we like to be able to superimpose a circle over
the side profile of the hip. Rating- 9
LEGS- This one we do tend to be real sticklers on-
particularly when it comes to hocks. The hocks should sit directly under the
horse's hip for power, balance and to support the weight of the hip. There are two ways to judge this. One is to
drop an imaginary string line from point of hip down to see if the hocks follow
through in a parallel fashion. Another
is to drop your imaginary string line form the ball of the hip. If it hits between 1-2" in FRONT of his
foot then his hock is underneath his him. Hocks that are set out behind or set
too far forward take away from the symmetry of the horse's stride. You want the
horse to move out with the same length of stride with the front legs as is in
the rear. This criteria is probably one of the most important to us. Now the set to the hocks, while very
important, is not AS important as long as it doesn't hit an extreme. The hock acts as the horse's shock absorber-
contributing to his longevity as an athlete. It gives him his impulsion,
balance and length of stride. If the horse is too straight in the hock- as in
"posty hocked" then there will be less shock absorption. Too much set to the hock puts a strain and
pressure on the joint, also causing break-downs and lameness problems. You want
the hocks to be low set to the ground. How low is low? Well, you want to imagine a level line from
the knee to the hock with the hock being just slightly above that line. If the hock is well above that line that
horse will never level up and it's length of stride front and rear will never
equal. Also important is the length of the forearm, cannon bone and
pastern. A longer forearm- a longer
stride. This is a good thing. BUT the
cannon bone should accompany it by being short and straight. The pastern angle
should match the shoulder angle. They should be short as if your pasterns are
too long there will be too much stress and flexion on the horses tendons
causing eventual breakdown. If the
pasterns are too steep, there will not be enough shock absorption and the legs
will buckle. The key here is you want the horse to land flat. The leg bones
should be substantial for the horse. Too
refined on a big bodied horse won't support the weight or use and
BINGO...breakdown. Too coarse gives a
drafty heavy appearance. Consider the
eventual body size and height of the young horse and judge accordingly. If you
are going to err on a young big bodied horse...err on the heavy boned side.
Finally, the legs should be straight and pointing foreword when you are looking
directly from the front or behind. Now if they are not perfectly straight and
pointing forward be less concerned UNLESS it is too extreme. In some performance disciplines, a bit of cow
hock (toes angling out in the back) can actually be an asset. Not being completely straight can give more
swing to the stride. BUT again, anything
to extreme should be ruled out. Rating-
10
The following are some terms that will help you with leg conformation:
The following are some terms that will help you with leg conformation:
Sickle-hocked - too much angle to the hock.
Cow-hocked - bowed in at the hock and cannon bone.
Post-legged - too little angle to the hock.
Bow-legged - bowed out at the hock.
Buck-kneed - knees set too far forward.
Splay-footed - toes point outward.
Calf-kneed - knees are set too far back.
Pigeon-toes - toes point inward.
MUSCLE- should NEVER be more important than balance and
overall symmetry. We do feel a strong "V" formation in the chest is
important. That is, looking at the chest
from front-on, the muscle between the front legs forms a sharp "V" as
opposed to squared off or boxy appearance.
A horse whose front legs set far to the side of the shoulder can't cross
over well. A horse too narrow lacks balance.
A horse that has it's legs sit to far to the front of the shoulder also
lacks balance and stride. To far behind
and he appears pigeon breasted and short strided. (pigeon breasted=that needs a bra look). Hip? well.... many halter people tend to feel
you can never have too much hip. We tend
to like a well defined round hip too, but we like it to tie in still high
enough to allow freedom of movement. Not too high...we like good carry down to
the gaskin. From the rear we like to see a strong bulging gaskin for propulsion
and if you lift the tail, well defined inside muscling on the legs. We also
like a strong well defined forearm. One
that bulges slightly out from the arm as opposed to straight and weak. Rating-
8
OVERALL- The horse should be balanced with symmetry. It
should tie together well. Not a parts horse....meaning the horse has good parts
but just kind of has the look that they were thrown abruptly together. It
should flow from one area to the other. The horse should move freely...almost
like it's hinged in balance from the shoulder, back and hip with equal strides
and equal parts. If you were to imagine it as a frozen object and teeter totter
it from the middle would the front and rear balance out...or would it tip
heavily to one side. It should move relatively level and consistent. It should
have cadence and grace. Effortless as opposed to contrived actions. Rating- 9
Okay there you have it. The Sawyer Creek check list. Whoa...I had to really resist the tendency of
putting a 10 rating on them all! The
fact is, all of these are important. Now
I know I've probably left off a lot and you all have a lot you are thinking
about to add...but I guess that was my purpose...to get you to thinking...to
get you to analyzing just what makes a good ...no, GREAT horse and how you too
can strive to better the breed!
I'm interested in breeding with shipped semen? What do I
need to do?
The very first thing you need to do is to define your
breeding goals. What is the discipline
you are trying to pursue? Do you hope to show this new foal? If so, what traits
and qualities are you looking for that will make you successful? What do you
intend to do with the foal long term?
Keep it or market it?
Secondly, you need to honestly evaluate you own abilities to
care and provide for this foal. Do you
have a good handle on what it will cost to add this new little one to your
family? Do you have the time to devote
to it? Do you have the facilities? Do
you have the knowledge and support necessary to make sure the care of the mare,
birth and training of the little one goes smoothly? Do you have an experienced
vet or breeding facility to help you with this process?
Thirdly, you need to also evaluate your mare and her
abilities to create the offspring you are looking for. Have you researched her pedigree? What are her strengths? What are her
weaknesses? What do you hope she passes
on? What do you hope she DOESN'T pass
on? Perhaps a good second opinion
of a more experienced breeder may help
you with this.
Last but not least, is your mare breeding sound? A good breeding soundness exam done by your
vet on your mare well before breeding season will be money well spent and can
help you avoid headaches down the road.
If she does have minor problems, given enough lead time they can be well
corrected prior to breeding season. Again, a little research here can go a long
way. Has your mare ever had trouble
conceiving or carrying a foal in the past?
If so she may not be a good candidate for AI. Has your mare had problems with infections?
Occasionally mares will pick up an infection either at the time of foaling or
during a previous live cover breeding and may not show any outward signs.
Untreated infections can cause severe damage to the uterus that may prevent her
from carrying a foal full term. Is your mare age appropriate? We generally do not breed mares till they are
at least three years of age and physically mature. If your mare is a maiden
mare (no previous pregnancies or foals) then chances are you don't have
anything to worry about but I always recommend an exam. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of
cure.
Now, let's assume you have done your homework and have found
the perfect stallion to cross on your mare. Your research reveals he compliments her good traits and is
dominant for correcting where your mare is flawed. He is a proven breeder with experienced
owners and his semen is of high quality and ships well. You have read over his
contract which is reasonable and his fee affordable. The owners or handlers
have answered your questions, have a good reputation and a high success record
in the breeding shed. You then book the
stallion early to reserve his service to your mare.
The next step is for
you to decide approximately when you would like your new foal to be born. Since
a mare's due date will be 11 months and 5 days from the last day she was bred
you can set up an optimistic time frame of your impending birth. Factors to consider are your work schedule,
climate, facilities and mare's cycling history. If you intend to show this
foal, particularly if it is destined for weanling futurities, you will want to
push for a foal born in the early months of the year. Most breed registries abide by a Jan. birth
date for show purposes and class divisions.
Your foal would be at a competitive disadvantage if it were born late in
the year making it smaller and less mature than the others in it's class.
Taking all these factors under consideration you notify the stallion owner of
approximately when you plan to breed and start your preparations.
Let's say for hypothetical purposes you would like a January
baby. How should you prepare now? Since
a mare's cycling is usually dependent on her light receptors, you will want to
consider starting to place her under lights for aprox. 16 hours a day. This means that as the days grow shorter in
the fall you will need to supplement and extend her daylight hours by
artificial light. This usually means a
well lit stall which you control either manually or on a timer. A good rule of thumb is to start around
Thanksgiving and for a continuous 16 hours.
Maintain enough light for her between outside time and in the stall so
that you can read a newspaper with ease. If you are consistent, this will kick
in or continue her cycles so she will be ready to breed early. Once you see she is cycling keep a calendar
and accurately record the dates she is in or out, and the signs she
exhibits. This will start to provide you
with her particular reproductive pattern. Some mares will easily show signs of
heat. Some are more elusive. Some will show readily to a gelding. But in any case, you should be able to detect
signs within 8-10 weeks of your lighting program. Recording the dates will help
you calculate for actual semen shipments.
Since a mare normally will ovulate on the day before she goes out of
heat, you will want to inseminate her in such a way that you have the semen in
the uterus prior to, but as close as possible to that time of ovulation. Should
you not desire an early foal you can begin recording her cycles when they occur
naturally later in the spring.
Let's say it's now Feb. and you have done your breeding
soundness exam and have accurately recorded your mare's cycles. You can now predict with the help of
your vet, your mare's impending cycles.
You and your vet will need to communicate with the stallion owner and
notify them that you will be needing your semen shipment soon. Your observation
of your mare will tell you when to contact your vet to set up an appointment to
have the mare ultrasounded. The
ultrasound will tell your vet how close your mare is to ovulation based on the
size and feel of her follicle. Your vet
will most likely want her ultrasounded on day 2 or 3 of her heat to determine
the schedule of the semen shipment for insemination. Every mare is different. Some have 6 day cycles...some have 10. Knowing how many days your mare cycles will
help avoid unnecessary shipments and costs.
Should she have a 6 day cycle you will want to inseminate on day 4 or 5
for her ovulation. Should she have 10 day cycles your vet will hold off on
the shipment based on that. I cannot
stress enough the value of record keeping and the timing of her breeding for a
successful experience!
Once your vet determines that the follicle is at the
appropriate stage the stallion owner is notified. Most stallion owners require at least 24
hours notice...and remember..,you need a day for delivery. Some stallion owners
only collect on certain days. Some do
not collect on weekends. This is where
knowing your contract becomes key for your successful experience. Once notified the stallion owner ships the
semen overnight. It usually comes in a Styrofoam or other insulated container
in two packets. This specialized
container (Foal Flight or Equitainer) maintains the optimum cooled temperature
to keep the semen healthy and viable. Your vet initially will use one of these
packets direct from the container, draw it up into a syringe, inject it into a
pipette that was inserted into the mouth of the mare's uterus. This will be
repeated the next day with the second packet. We recommend that the vet give the mare an injection at this time to
make sure that she ovulates within the 36 hours the semen is still viable.
Since the ability of the mare to conceive is drastically reduced in the short
hours after ovulation, it is most important she is inseminated just prior.
Once the second packet is used, it is your responsibility to
immediately ship the special container (Equitainer) and all it's parts back to
the stallion owner so it may be reused on other's mares. The containers are
very expensive and are in high demand during breeding season so most farms will
have a fine for returning them late or will charge you for missing components.
Of course if the container was one of the disposable variety this is not
necessary, but you may want to keep it or offer it to your vet.
Finally, we recommend that you have your vet out once again
to ultrasound your mare during the 15 to 17 days from the last
insemination. This will tell you if your
homework paid off or if you have to go through the whole procedure again! If she is deemed pregnant, have her
ultrasounded again at aprox. 30 days to make sure she maintained that pregnancy
and is not carrying twins.
Sounds hard? Not
really. If you do your research,
homework and preparations you will have a happy, healthy quality foal to reward
you!
What are the approximate costs involved in breeding a mare
with shipped semen?
The costs involved in breeding your mare with artificial
insemination can vary greatly. To give
you a basis to make your decision on lets begin with a few basic premises.
First..let's consider the cost of your vet's farm call.
These usually run anywhere from $35 to $100 depending on drive time, distance,
whether it's during office hours and whether or not it's during the work
week. Keep in mind that a mare's
ovulation is not something you can always control though it can be helped
along. We will go with a $50 average for
our purposes of calculation.
Second...let's consider the cost of a standard
ultrasound. Again this varies but most
vets charge from $35.00 to $75.00 so again we will say $50.00 as an average.
- Stallion Service Fee: This is the price the stallion owner
charges for the stud's services.
Stallion fees can range on the average from $500 to $1500. For our purposes we will go with $800. (Bear in mind the marketability of foals can
be directly related to the stallion used and sometimes a few hundred dollars
more in stud fee can make many more times difference in the marketability of
that foal).
$800 - Breeding soundness exam:
This would include a farm call- $50.
Usually a culture- $40, a palp or ultrasound-$50.
$140 - Should your mare have an infection: Farm call - $50, plus a flush- $50. Often this has to be done in several visits. Sometimes you can fix the problem with one flush but many times it requires flushes performed daily during a cycle and then yet another culture to make sure the mare is now "clean." Figure an average of $300
- Collection charges or chute fees: These are the fees the stallion owner charges for the collection of the stallion. Sometimes you will find that a limited number of collections are included in the stud fee. Others charge it separately but the going rate is $150 for collection. If you are very lucky you can get by with one collection. If you are unlucky you may have to try through several cycles. Lets say you are moderately lucky. We'll figure $300.
- Deposit on Equitaner- Usually $250 but this is a
returnable deposit IF the Equitaner is returned within 72 hours with all it's
components. Return of the container- depends on where you live but figure on
the cheap side it will cost- $50. Many
breeders have gone to disposable containers which they generally charge $35.00
for. This would be the cost for only the
container so it would be $35 each time when semen is shipped. They don't get
returned. Since we are presuming two shipments and the most common practice of
purchasing disposable containers we will figure-
$70.00 - Shipping the disposable containers. Overnight shipping can vary depending on
distance and location. Bear in mind that not all areas have same day or
overnight available OR you may have to drive to pick the container up at an
airport. You can usually figure as an
average with Fed-Ex $40-$75. We will
figure $50. SO...two shipments Fed-Ex
is:
$100 - Now your mare is cycling...you did your calendar work and your vet comes out on the second day of her cycle and does an ultrasound. $50 for the farm call. $50 for the ultrasound. $100
- Semen is ordered for insemination the 4th or 5th day. Farm call- $50. Ultrasound- $50 and insemination- $50 $150
- Vet comes back and puts second dose of semen in. $150
- Vet comes back to make sure mare has ovulated on time and does yet another ultrasound. $100.
- Vet comes back 15-17 days after your mare was last inseminated to see if you were successful. Does another ultrasound. $100
- Vet comes back at 30 days, makes sure she has maintained the pregnancy and is not carrying twins. $100.
- Now lets assume you didn't catch her the first cycle for what ever reason. This is common and because of that we are counting on two cycles to ship on remember. But while we figured the containers and shipping we now need to add that vet work. We would have to repeat steps 7-11 at a cost of: $500.
Now we have presumed all this time that there were no major
breeding problems that went unnoticed.. Your mare isn't cystic, allergic to
extender, cycles like clockwork and doesn't need Regumate to keep her hormone
level regulated. Let's also assume she did NOT have an infection. Let's assume
that her vaccinations are already taken care of. Let's not include anything to
do with the actual birth or aftercare. Do you know what you've spent on getting
your mare in foal with artificial
insemination???.......
$2610
How does a foal develop inside it's mother?
Day 9
With the naked eye, you can see only the "embryonic
vesicle" which houses the embryo. The vesicle looks like a shimmering,
firm, translucent bubble, less than ¼ inch in diameter. On the ultrasound
screen, you will see it as a black circle in a sea of grainy gray (your mare's
uterus). At this point, the embryo is no larger than a pinpoint.
Day 24
The vesicle has grown to 1 inch in diameter. It's a
shimmering, flabby, translucent bubble with a dark red dot (the embryo) at one
end. A network of threadlike blood vessels emanates from the ¼ inch dot. You
can barely make out the beginnings of animal features: a head, tiny bumps that
will become eyes; a fleshy tail nub; and four little buds that will eventually
become legs. On the ultrasound monitor, you will see the vesicle as an
irregular, guitar-pick shaped black blob in a sea of grainy gray. Generally,
around Day 24 an embryonic heart is large enough to be seen on the ultrasound
screen. To find it, focus on the "floor" surface of the blob. You
will see a white smudge, about ½ inch in diameter, resting there; this is the
embryo. Within the smudge, a tiny black dot, about the size of a pinpoint, will
be flashing on and off like a computer's screen's cursor-this is the pea sized
embryo's beating heart.
Day 40
The vesicle is now 2 ½ inches in diameter, roughly spherical
in shape, and somewhat collapsed. The ¾ inch embryo within is now recognizable
as a four-legged critter: it has a blobby dome for a head, eyelids, rudimentary
ears, ridges where the nostrils will be, and functional elbows an stifle
joints. An ultrasound would reveal the vesicle as a roundish black blob: look
for the white smudge of an embryo to be suspended from the blob's ceiling,
rather than resting on its floor. This shift of position is step one in what
researchers call "the rise and fall of the embryo." It results from
filmy membranes at the top of the vesicle coming together to form the umbilical
cord. As they do so, they shorten, pulling the olive-sized embryo up to the
ceiling like a chandelier.
Day 50 to 55 of Pregnancy
The embryo is now slightly over an inch long, nesting within
the confines of the 3-inch vesicle. You can see tiny ribs under its skin; its
domed head looks like that of a Chihuahua, and has developed a distinct skull.
Little triangles represent its ears; the hock and fetlock joints have
developed. At this stage, your future foal officially will graduate from embryo
to fetus. On an ultrasound monitor, you'll find the fetus back on the vesicle's
floor, due to a lengthening of the umbilical cord. Because of its size-now
about that of a pecan-this will be your last opportunity to view the fetus via
ultrasonography; in a matter of weeks, it'll be too large for the screen
Day 60
The vesicle is now flabby and shapeless, conforming to the
uterine walls; the fetus is about 2 1/2 inches long. You can see that it
clearly resembles a horse, thanks to the developemnt of tiny hooves, complete
with soles and frogs. Its head is still tucked, but less so than before. The
fetus is hairless, and about the size of a hamster.
Day 80
The fetal head and neck will be untucked, and are being held
level with the spine in the "normal" horse position. Its sex is now
visable: you can see that little lumps have formed for the scrotum, if it's a
male, or the udder, if its a female. The fetus is now about the size of a
chimpmonk.
Day 100
Your mare's 7-inch fetus is about the size of a 6-week old
kitten. You can see a bit of hair on its lips; its ears are unfurling from its
head. They're now nearly 1/2 inch long and are curled forward. The coronary
bands look like raised lines encircling the tops of its tiny 1/4-inch hooves.
Day 150
Gaining more than a pound every 10 days, the fetus now is
about the size of a rabbit. Hair graces its chin, muzzle, and eyelids. If you
look closely, you'll see that eyelashes have emerged.
Day 180
The fetus has quadrupled its weight in just 30 days. Mane
and tail hairs have appeared; it's about the size of a Beagle.
Day 240
Now about the size of a small lamb, the fetus has
whisker-like hairs on its chin, throat and muzzle.
Day 270
Your mare's fetus now looks like a foal: fine hair covers
its body, and it now has a swatch of hair on its tail. It's about the size of a
German Shepherd.
Day 320
In the last week or so, the fetus's lungs have developed to
the point that they can function in the "real world"; its legs have
strengthened to the point that they can support is weight; and its hair has
coarsened, from the fine, silky texture of fetus hair, to that of a bonafide
foal. As far as development goes, the fetus is "done." You'll get the
chance to meet your mare's foal in a matter of days or weeks. (Normal equine
gestation can range from 320 to 365 days.)
Want to know how we predict when our mares will foal?
Many of you have asked how we test our mares to predict
foaling within 12 hour period percentages.
For many years we have had great success using the "Predict-A-Foal,
Mare Foaling Predictor Kit" by Animal Healthcare Products. We don't sell this kit nor do we work for
them but can, from personal experience highly recommend it as accurate and very
helpful. The kit is easy to use. A small sample of milk (colostrum) is taken
from the mare and added to test solution which is included. It is mixed and a test strip is dipped
in. After 60 seconds the strip is
compared to a chart that indicates percentage chances of foaling within 12
hours. The test is reported to be 95%
accurate and from our experience this is indeed true. We have purchased our kits through mail
order. A number of companies offer it
but we order ours through Valley Vet Supply at 1-800-356-1005 or through the
web site at www.valleyvet.com The small
kit contains 15 test strips and sells for $28.95 while the Breeder Kit does 100
tests. Extra strips can also be
purchased for $11.49 Shipping with
Valley Vet is usually free.
Mares are often very unpredictable in showing signs of
foaling and the gestation can vary several weeks in either direction of the
calculated 342 days due date. For this
reason it is important to know your mare's history and her patterns. Many nights waiting for an impending birth
can be exhausting especially when you are a breeding farm. We use this foal prediction kit, as well as
other signs to narrow down the impending birth as closely as possible and even
then sometimes maiden mares give no indicators at all! Some of the indicators
we use that you might find helpful:
1. Distention of the
nipples or udder- the nipple will swell or expand, point down and
elongate. I have had this occur 4 to 6
weeks in advance but in most cases it occurs 2-4 weeks and increases as foaling
becomes imminent.
2. Loosening of the tail head and hindquarters- Usually
between 1-3 weeks prior to foaling.
These areas will flatten and soften becoming almost jello-like when
palpated.
3. Filling of the nipples- a week to ten days before foaling
4. Wax on the nipples- a small waxy deposit on the end of
the nipples- often amber or white in color and may appears as beads or stringy. This occurs not in all mares but about 60% of
them and is a very reliable indication of impending birth. Most mares will foal within 48 hours of
waxing.
5. Swelling or loosening of the vulva- this slackening also
occurs within 48 hours of birth
6. Dripping milk- Very imminent foaling- usually within
12-24 hours! Some mares however will
drip for several days prior but these mares often have an internal problem so
check with your vet! Valuable immunity
transfers can be lost in this dripping colostrum so be sure to tell your vet this has
occurred.
7. Changes in the mares behavior- kicking at the belly,
snatching at the side, rolling, licking, gnawing, head shaking, pawing, going
up and down, making a nest, going off feed, sweating- these are all signs you
may be getting close!
8. Color of the colostrum- Pale, relatively transparent,
watery yellow fluid usually indicates you are a considerable time from foaling-
this coupled with little change on the test strips indicates you PROBABLY have
2-3 days before retesting. If the
secretion is milky white, thick and sticky but the the color change on the
strips is minimal- test again in 24 hours.
80% of the mares will have changed from transparent watery yellow to
whitish thick by the time the mare foals.
Of course maiden mares can be an exception.
9. Speed of color strip change- The speed at which the
strips change color indicates how close your mare is to foaling. A rapid change of 3-4 of the squares indicate
a closer foaling than one that takes a full 60 seconds. Mares that produce a rapid full five color
changes usually foal within 6 hours.
Individual mares will vary as to how they build up the color changes. Usually mares will build from a one change to
four or five within 6-7 days but some mares can have a 1-2 color change for
many days and frustrate you with the same test results day after day.
10. Gut instinct- If you feel your mare's just plain acting
differently, off her routine or "telling you something" pay
attention. You know your horse better than
anyone. There is no hard and fast rules
with mares- everything has an exception.
These are simply guidelines that have proven themselves to us over many
years and many foals. Good Luck and
heres to your healthy happy foal and successful foaling experience!
What are the color patterns of the Appaloosa?
As Appaloosa breeders we never forget the preference for those unique Appaloosa coat patterns in our stock! From solid to fewspot leopard, the never ending variety of markings is just one aspect of the Appaloosa that will endear you to the breed.
What are the color patterns of the Appaloosa?
Where do I find additional information about Appaloosa
horses and the Appaloosa Horse Club?
Check out the Appaloosa Horse Club (ApHC) web site or
research a pedigree by clicking the links below!
Appaloosa Horse Club
2720 W. Pullman Road
Moscow, ID 83843
(208) 882-5578
Pedigree Research Site
